Hello from the dead! JK. I’m resurrecting this space as a judgement-free place to write whatever the hell I want this year. I’ve been agonizing over whether to start something new, and maybe I still will, but for now, I still have this space and I can fill it with all the ideas in my head.
I often get asked for my favorite places in Paris and I just spent another week there in November, so I have a few new things to add. Time to update that list and have a home for it all. These are places I would visit or have visited again. Enjoy!
Coffee & Breakfast
Fragments – This is my favorite coffee shop for many reasons and stop here at lease once every trip. I love the location and the cozy vibes inside. Food is lovely too.
Neighbours – This bright and cheery space has terrazzo walls star tiles on the floor. The tables have colored pencils. And you’ll belly up to kind strangers at the shared tables. Coffee is from a UK roaster and their crumpets (with avocado!) can’t be missed.
Telescope – Go here for a quiet oasis and a good cup after a walk through the Tuileries and Palace Royal.
Ten Bells – Nice little coffee shop on the other side of Canal St. Martin.
Café Oberkamf – Get the green shakshuka!
Holybelly 5 – The hype is real here. Enjoy the fluffy pancakes and happy staff. Get here early (maybe make it your first stop when you arrive & before you can check into your place)
Echo – The bacon is unreal at this hip shop in Sentier.
Du Pain et des Idées – The chocolate pistachio snail pastry lives up to the hype. You should buy at least two.
Circus Bakery – A cinnamon roll is must, their breads are great.
Popelini – Mini eclairs that are just heavenly. Loved the passionfruit and hazelnut flavors.
Croissants – Here’s my rule for croissants: they’re good mostly everywhere in Paris. Get them often. Doesn’t matter where. Pass a bakery, buy a croissant. You won’t be disappointed.
Pain Pain – Great bakery. Grab something and head up to Montmartre.
Mokonuts – Known for their chocolate chip cookie but also stay for lunch if you can!
I love a good mix of planning dinners but also stumbling upon things. Book a few dinners but also leave room for spontaneity and just popping into a bistro for steak frites.
Frenchie Bar a Vins – I had one of the best meals of my life here. Not just because the food is impeccable – savory and also fun – but because the service is wonderful and happy and the vibe is just great. Because it’s communal tables and no reservations, it’s a very friendly place where you’re bound to chat with people and the world feels charming and small. also, I love Frenchie to Go across the street – the beet Reuben is a great sandwich.
Coinstot Vino – Rowdy little wine tucked away in a passage. Racines is also nearby and highly recommended.
Au Passage – Interesting meal, many great chefs have graduated from here.
Ellsworth – Everyone talks about their fried chicken, and it really is great. I’d recommend booking this with a group of people. My meal was great but wasn’t the best solo dining experience.
Bistrot Paul Bert – A classic French bistro experience but without the fuss. Order dessert.
Ober Mamma/Big Love – I know these restaurants can be overhyped but honestly I love a lot about them. The food is excellent. The mood is so happy and fun. They are very accommodating. Big Love has gluten free pizzas (perfect for my friends) and also my favorite truffle pasta from Ober Mamma.
Le Comptoir – Fave spot in St. Germain to sit outside with great wine and cheese (and escargot!)
Richer – Wonderful interesting food and lovely atmosphere.
Wine & Cocktails
Le Barav – I love this wine bar and how people spill out into the streets to drink. If you want a bottle you go over to their wine shop next door and pick it out. Had some great natural wines here.
Le Mary Celeste – Corner spot with great wine & oysters, and good vibes.
A few others: Déviant, CopperBay, Night Flight, Experimental Cocktail Club
Things to Do/Places to Go
First of all, Paris is my favorite walking city. While the metro is great, I rarely take it because I love walking everywhere. So wear sneakers (bundle up if it’s cold) and walk!
Museums – Picasso, Rodin, l’Orangerie, d’Orsay, Centre Pompidou
Neighborhoods/Areas – Rue Monteguiel, marche les enfants rouges, Rue de Bretagne, walk along canal St. Martin, Jardin du Luxembourg
La Cuisine Paris – If you have time, book one of the many intimate cooking classes here. The instructors are wonderful and you’ll learn a lot about french food – and can bring it home with you!
Bon Marché & Le Grand Epicerie – elegant department store and grocery store, fun to wander around and look at all the things you can’t afford.
There’s shopping everywhere in Paris and I certainly won’t be your guide for that, but a few shoutouts to some favorites I’d love to visit again:
Make My Lemonade, Des Petits Hauts, Medecine Douce, Super Shop, Slow Galerie, E. Dehillerin, Papier Tigre, Madeline & Gustave
Where To Stay
Hotels – The Hoxton (hispster, beautiful, fun), Hôtel Fabric (small, boutique, great location), Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal (elegant and more expensive, but I think I found a great rate)
Airbnb – Would recommend this one again.